I come before you now in utmost humility and shame having been so neglectful of my blog. Things have picked up here, and I am suddenly inundated with work. If I could time travel, I would go back to the beginning of this summer and slap myself for thinking I could apply to grad school while abroad. However, to my knowledge, time travel still has a few kinks to be worked out before it is made accessible to the general public. And thus, I have little choice but to suffer through the end of the month.
It’s important to note that my neglect does not mean nothing has happened. Au contraire. But before I can move on to more recent events, I realize I left everyone hanging with my last post, and the party and its aftermath cannot under any circumstances be omitted. And so, Maestro, cue SNL’s Wayne’s World flash back music!
The following events took place Saturday, November 1 and Sunday, November 2. I use no proper names to protect the culpable (and because I can’t remember them):
The girls live within the walls of St. Laizier with a third roommate. I realize I mentioned an entirely different village in a previous post, but due to not entirely unforeseen events, there was a last minute housing change. I was originally supposed to live with the Boulanger, the local baker, but was switched to a house of full blown, authentic bohemians. I think I would have enjoyed spending ten days at the baker’s, but in the end the change worked to the advantage of my waist line. But let’s get back to the bohemians. One of the fundamental characteristics of a bohemian lifestyle is an eclectic home, and they didn’t disappoint. The house was everything I could ever want or expect from an artsy bohemian lifestyle. No surprises here, I loved the house, with two equally unsurprising exceptions: (1) a certain degree of uncleanliness is unfortunately mandatory for authentic bohemianism – one reason why the closest I will ever come to a bohemian lifestyle will always be imitation – and (2) the odd, distinctly familiar smell permeated the house. It’s the same smell you come home with after an indie-rock concert, or really, nearly any concert you go to with the exception of most Classical. It’s a mix of 40% cigarette smoke, 40% alcohol, and 20% weed. If you have never been exposed to this odor, take my word for it that unless accustomed to the smell, it’s rather unpleasant. It’s why you isolate dirty concert cloths from the rest of the laundry, and it gives you the compulsion to run home and shower as soon as possible.
I wasn’t given much time to accustom myself to the odor before we rushed out to the concert. The venue was down a twisting road leading halfway up a mountain. There were no neighbors for miles, which allows for complete freedom as far as noise is concerned. It’s been a while since I’ve been on the concert scene, and even then, I was with friends and in a country where the language posed no difficulties and my parents were always within 30 feet (another story for another day). The differences made for an interesting night, to say the least. I was ushered in, introduced to about 15 people all at once, and given a volunteer badge, which allotted for a meal of pasta and three drinks on the house. As we waited for the concert to begin, I made awkward small talk with several of the people I had just met. Small talk stinks in English, but it’s even worse in French. At least in English, you can pull from all kinds of subjects and there is the option of quickly moving past the smallness of small talk to a real conversation, but in French, I found myself restricted to what I could say and what I could understand. In short, it was a painful experience. Another painful experience, smoke in the eyes. In general, the majority of the French roll their cigarettes. It’s far less expensive, you get fewer chemicals, and from what I understand, it’s more bang for your buck. It also gives fidgety chain smokers something to occupy themselves with: you finish one cigarette, and then move on to rolling the next – it slows down the consumption rate, while meeting fidgeting needs.
Once the concert picked up, my bohemian friends got down to work ensuring the bar was tended, the musicians made it on stage relatively on time, and people paid to enter. This left me all alone in a huge crowd of French people of all ages drawn to the site by the promise of a smorgous board of techno music. Did I mention it was a techno concert? Four bands played, each representing a different stream of techno: chill techno, jazz techno, hardcore techno, DJ techno… I had no idea there was such variety. Yet despite the diversity, I can’t say I found the concert enjoyable. In fact, I spent most of the night pressed into a corner alternating my gaze between the lead guitarist who kept making a “get out of my way, I’m about to hurl” face, and the androgynous couple simultaneously making out and dancing in front of me.
After the second band, I came to the realization I couldn’t handle any more techno, and searched for one of my bohemian friends who had promised me a place to sleep. After I found him, he led me upstairs to a somewhat private room above the stage with two twin sized mattresses on the floor and a kid’s sleeping bag on one. He left me with the warning that someone might be sleeping on the other mattress later that night. Left to my own devices, I chose the mattress with the mold on it – it looked cleaner than the other one – and crawled in the sleeping bag. It was really cold and I was desperate, don’t judge. Besides, I soon realized I could lay in such a way that I was completely protected from the sleeping bag coming in contact with my skin. Surprisingly, I quickly fell asleep, dreaming of tecno-rave music all night, or at least until the drunk came in and passed out on the mattress next to mine, and began whimpering.
The next morning I woke up around 11:50 to the sound of shouting. Turns out, people were frolicking in the neighboring fields. Yet for all the frolicking, no one had thought to make coffee. Good thing I have plenty of experience in that department. Making coffee put me in the good graces of everyone who wandered into the kitchen. As for food, I found a plate of cut carrots, and after sniffing them, decided they were safe to eat. I’m not proud of myself; I only did what was necessary to survive. But I might have to get tested for hepatitis when I get back.
Soon after making coffee, I discovered my bohemians car, the car with my wallet, cell phone, and Chapstick in it, was missing. To all appearances, I was abandoned in one of the filthiest and most isolated places I’ve ever seen. Wonderful. There were several people still around, but none really seemed to care. I suspect their lack of concern was closely related to their blood-shot eyes. Fortunately, the guy who found me a place to sleep the night before was still around. Unfortunately, he didn’t seem to care either. I eventually caught a ride with him to this bar where everyone hangs out and where we found my bag (in the unlocked car).
The apparent abandonment aside, I really do like these people. They are very nice, if not always the most helpful. We spent the rest of the day lounging around their bar and lying in the sun before going on a hike. At this point, I was feeling absolutely disgusting – I hadn’t showered, washed my face, changed my cloths, and worse of all, hadn’t brushed my teeth since the previous morning. When I mentioned my discomfort to one of my friends that evening, she looked at me puzzled saying “you haven’t showered? Everyone else has!” What??? Apparently everyone showered at the bar before I arrived. Somehow I was overlooked in this.
When we finally returned to their home, it was filled with their friends, all of whom jumped in the shower before I had the chance. When I finally got my chance, I regretted even more being last to shower. Judging by all the cigarette butts lining the rim of the tub, chain smoking continues even when taking a shower. But like I said, with the exception of the whole abandonment thing, the lack of sanitation, the chain smoking, and all my cloths smelling like smoke/weed, I really liked the bohemians…I just couldn’t handle living with them. I had been in communication with my program coordinator as soon as I was reunited with my cell phone, and we made the decision to switch homes.
I’m now living with Francoise, who drinks condensed milk because regular milk has no flavor, and who babies me as much as she babies her cat, which she thinks likes green beans, but in reality only eats around them to get to the crème freche she mixes them with. I’m much happier here - when I arrived, there was a cleaning lady and everything. There are only two drawbacks: First, I have begun to notice that she uses the same voice when speaking to me as she does with the cat. That, when combined with the number of times she has left me in the car while she does grown up things, has given me the impression she sees me more as her pet American than a human-being. Second, the cat, Cdo, is in the habit of joining us at the dining table. Seeing how much I like cats in the first place, this is a problem.
PS the view from my bed room is incredible. I’m
attaching pictures.
If God can be this creative on earth, I can’t wait to see heaven.